In response to a conversation about the movie Babies:
“Well, we think we have the reason that every culture has the same word for mama. [dramatic pause] Every culture domesticated goats!” — Jorja
Jorja’s right: baby goats DO make a loud, pleading noise, and it does certainly sound like “maaaaa! maaaa!” Furthermore, their crying is invariably followed by an urgent search and subsequent attack of the woman who’s given them everything. I can assure you of this from my firsthand experience; this farm is bursting with babies.
Baby goats really act like they’re full-time in a skate park. It’s as if they think they’re this little kid (watch the middle section, 0:53 or so, to get the idea), jumping and doing flips and giving each other high fives… or, at least, nose-bumps. They’re constantly hungry, harassing their moms and climbing atop them. When they really can’t wait any longer, they ram them, full speed. Sometimes the mamas’ hind legs kick up from the force. A male photographer from the local paper was here the other day, and he probably put it best: “Wow, they really smash their boobs, don’t they?” In my new-found effort to leave the emotions in the moment and avoid anthropomorphizing, I think I am allowed a “puppy clause” or something that says excuses can be made for cute and tiny little things.
A huge consequence of baby-mania is, of course, milking. At first it was only a few goats, and we only milked to make sure they emptied out during the day, but now we’ve gone in to full production mode. We’re talking a 2+ hour operation of sterilization and goat wrangling and vacuum suction pumps. It’s funny, because this is what we thought we were coming for: the kidding, the milking lessons, the pasteurization, and the cheese production. In reality, the things we’ve learned practically could have happened on any farm, creamery or not.
Back when we were looking for farms, I’d really liked the sound of a blueberry farm only 45 minutes from Seattle, and Litoralis shot me down, saying, “What would we possibly do on a blueberry farm in January!?” I should have shot back with “what will we possibly do at a creamery in (the dead of winter) January!?” but we all know that there are no regrets in coming to this particular farm. The relationships we’ve created with Jorja and Penny are well worth any misconceptions we may have had, any change of plan in the cheese-making education. We have still eaten like royalty, learned a great deal, and benefited from the dairy herd in excellent — and unexpected — ways.
Jorja’s goal was to be in commercial production mode by March 1, but we all knew right away that was ambitious. Before any sellable cheese could be made, the milk and cheese rooms had to be refinished, sanitized, and put back together. We had to be sure that, in three days of milking (the largest window Penny lets her milk go before pasteurizing it), the goats and sheep would provide the minimum 10 gallons necessary to run the pasteurizer. We had to learn to milk. And Penny and Jorja had business to attend to in Seattle, meaning we needed a crash-course in milking, so we could do it on our own.
Needless to say, like everything else in our time here, this, too worked out. Our first day of milking went surprisingly well. The worst thing that happened was Litoralis let loose all of the goats. Whoops. Fortunately, they are creatures of habit and we could fairly easily get all the goats back in the holding pen with the shameless lure of treats. Nothing like alfalfa pellets to snare them away from freedom.
As we tallied a few good mornings of milking on our belts, our sense of accomplishment soared. It is rewarding — and fitting? — that our last days are filled with the literally sweet successes of putting the creamery back in business. Sheep milk lattes, cookies dipped in what looks like paint, silky thick yogurt, and the most creamy roux yet. Penny and Jorja never really aspire to year-round milking; it’s too hard on the animals and the humans, and the break is so welcome. Eventually, they’ll have hard cheeses that are aging all throughout the year, and the income stream will stay constant. But right now, it’s excitement and novelty, all the perks of farmfresh milk, along with unfreezing the pipes and resealing the floor and checking every day how many more ounces each goat is producing.
We couldn’t make the goal of March 1 cheese because of many factors, not the least of which being losing the experts to their weekend in Seattle. Let’s not forget that Litoralis and I are actually total novices. But Litoralis had a stroke of genius when we tried to think what to do with all the milk we were gathering. One entrance into Litoralis’ “personal hell” (aka Macy’s) later, we were in possession of our very own ice cream maker, and we were feverishly researching gelato recipes.
The difference between gelato and ice cream is that ice cream, true to its name, has cream in it; gelato comes from pure milk. But sheep milk — boasting almost double the milkfat content of cow milk, and chemically different such that the fat won’t separate without a centrifuge — seemed a sneaky trick to gelato; it’s almost like using cream but it carries the much richer flavor. Genius. We almost shouldn’t publish the recipe, because it was that good. I think this gelato is the best example of how a window always opens when another door shuts — a useful lesson to keep in mind as we prepare to leave here and enter the job search with both feet. I hardly even care about the chevre anymore. (Well, okay, maybe I care a little bit…)
It’s not even worth trying to recreate the recpie here; I will direct you straight to this step-by-step direction guide for Unreasonably Good Gelato. Thanks to Frank Fariello of Memorie di Angelina for the recipe.
















